Hey everyone.
Here’s probably the most timely update I’ve given yet! This has someone evolved into a giant blog as well so again, take your time and don’t feel like you have to take it all in one sitting. Enjoy!…
So, last week we had our first trip away from Lima in the form of field based training (FBT). All of the aspiring volunteers took off in small groups to various parts of the country in order to meet with current volunteers and to finally do some real field work. We all went to different parts of the country, some south to the region of Ica, and the rest northwards to Ancash, Lambayeque, and Cajamarca. For my group, we went to Piura, way north.
Piura is a coastal region that borders Ecuador and has elements of desert and dry forest. The capital city is also named Piura and is located in the center of the region. This is where we went.
In my group there were five of us, Amy, Brad, Erica, Sasha, myself, accompanied our profesora Moní and her husband Jorge. We left on Sunday evening around 4:00 and got to the bus station really early thinking it would take a long time for the cab to get to Lima. It didn’t so after sitting around in the terminal for a couple hours we were off to Piura… 14 hours away.
The bus ride, for me, was horrible. For the first time in Peru I was sick and the timing couldn’t have been worse. I’ll spare the details but I didn’t sleep the entire time and was generally miserable (which is how most bus rides and plane trips go for me). We finally did arrive though, the next morning, and we went straight to the hotel where I went straight to my bed and tried to sleep off my sickness for our ‘charla’ (chat/meeting/get together) with an NGO later that afternoon. But… I didn’t sleep it off so I ended up just passing out for the entire day (missing an exciting adventure with an electrical fire in a restaurant). Fortunately Moní’s husband is a doctor so I got medicated and by Tuesday morning I was completely recovered.
Tuesday we woke up early in order to leave the hotel at eight. We then took an hour long bus ride to the city of Chulucanas where we met ‘el alcalde’ that is the mayor. He took us from the municipalidad to the center of a cool trash program called ‘Ola Vecino’ or Hello Neighbor. The program is great and basically started like this… the alcalde was elected and saw that there was a problem with trash in the community but very little funds to solve it. There were trash collectors but people would often miss them when they passed by and so trash was piling up in the homes and in the communities. The alcalde was thinking and thinking of how to solve this problem when the idea struck him to have a more direct trash pick-up service. He thought, when someone wants gas for their stoves, or even food, they can call someone and get it delivered. Why not have a system to allow people to call and have their trash picked up? And so it began, they converted moto-taxis (roughly explained as a motercycle welded to a carriage used to transport people) into trash collectors because they were cheap and started a system where people could call, pay one sol (about 33 cents) and have someone go straight to their house and pick up the trash. It sounds simple and it is but people have come from all over to see how it works and this simple idea has done an incredible amount for the community which is now very clean.
So… all morning this program was explained to us and then we got up and introduced ourselves and our program to the alcalde and the people that were there. We did a good job at this and it is a good thing because the next day we found out that out introductions had been filmed and showed regionally in the news in all of Piura and in Tumbes! We were on TV for five minutes so that goes to show you’ve really got to be on your game all the time. You never know…
Anyway, after we finished speaking we joined the alcalde and his entourage for lunch at a restaurant where we tried…
Cebiche. This is the most famous Peruvian dish and is especially good in Piura. Cebiche (I think we spell it ceviche in English) is Peru’s quirky and amazingly delicious form of sushi. It is made with fresh and raw diced fish, lime, onions, and occasionally hot peppers. This is all marinated and served room temperature with usually potatoes on the side. It is amazing.
Seco de Chabelo. This plate is typical of Piura and is made with a type of green banana, onions, tomatoes, peppers, salt, pepper, and dried meat. To make it, they mash the bananas then fry them. Then they fry everything else and mix it together. Simple and delicious.
Chifles, lastly and this was more throughout our time in Piura but I’ll talk about it now. We had chifles. These are super easy, they are green bananas cut very thin, fried and salted. They are like delicious potato chips and I am addicted to them. And for all of you who know how I am unable to eat bananas. This is still true. But frying them (or making bread with them) is somehow delicious.
So, that was lunch. After this we went to a local school and I had my first ever experience teaching. It went as well as could be expected although it was definitely difficult. The kids ranged from 11-16 and we talked to them in a round robyn of charlas where we split the kids into five groups and then had them cycle through our presentations. Between all of us we covered topics including recycling and decomposition and I talked about the importance of proper trash disposal. In order to do this I had a game which was kind of a relay race between two teams where they had to get trash to the waste basket using only their feet. We had done this earlier in training and it had been lots of fun. Unfortunately the kids were very un-enthusiastic (with all of us) and it was hard to get them motivated to participate and to talk. In brief, this is because the education in Peru is giving always in lecture format and kids are only expected to listen and take notes. Because of this they are uncomfortable with more non-formal education which is something all of us are going to have to learn to deal with.
Anyway, after this we had a quick snack of chifles where Erica had a strange encounter with the bathroom (she couldn’t find where the hole in the floor was) and then we all piled into a taxi (and by piled I mean everyone had someone else on their lap) and proceeded to the bus terminal from where we went back to Piura city where we had ice cream and where I got pickpocketed for $15 in the middle of a religious procession.
Wednesday we woke up again early and went to to visit an NGO called AIDER (Associasion para la Investigacion y Desarrollo Integral – translated literally as Association for the Investigation and Integral Development, not sure the non-literal translation) involved in reforestation projects. After meeting up with them, we went to visit a real reforestation project and a plot run by an old man and his wife. They are incredible. They work all day to plant trees in what is known as the ‘bosque seco’ or ‘dry forest’. True to its name, the forest is very dry and there is little water except during the rare years when the land is flooded by the phenomena el niño. So… this means the trees, especially in their first few years have to be taken very good care of. So that is what this man and his wife do, every day, plant and take care of trees that they will never reap the benefits of. They see themselves as helping their community by maintaining its resources as well as helping the world by de-contributing to the high levels of carbon in the atmosphere. They also designed a fascinating system to water the plants in which they use four 2 liter bottles connected with tubes and then bury them in the ground with slow release holes so that the tree gets water every day. With this process they can water any individual tree every 15-20 days rather than every day and the bottles being buried directs the roots downwards where they will eventually (sometimes after 100 meters) find water. It was very humbling seeing them talk about their work.
After meeting these two amazing people we went and talked to the leader of the community in which they are working. It was interesting because while the old man and his wife emphasized people cutting trees that they didn’t need as the big challenge the reforestation project faced, the community leaders said that fires – natural and man-made, intentional and unintentional – were the biggest problem.
After this, we returned back to Piura city and Brad and I went to the theatre to watch Pineapple Express at a very modern theatre while the girls went back to the hotel for a siesta. Then that night the girls went to see the same movie but we had more important things to do, that is watch the last game of the World Series (Brad is a big Phillies fan) and then celebrate their win.
And that was all for Wednesday… Thursday we left at nine to visit Elizabeth, a small-business volunteer working with artisan groups in her community. She showed us around her house and introduced us to her family and then we went to the school in her community to do some more environmental charlas. These went much much better than on the previous Tuesday. The school was very nice, because it was only a few months old, and all of the students were super-excited that we were there. This time, instead of doing the round robyn of projects we split into two big groups Sasha, Moní, and I taught one half with Sasha while Amy, Erica, and Brad taught the other. We were able to fluidly move between games and the kids seemed to really have fun. After this, since we had some extra time, we played some fun games with the kids like the human knot game and we also tried to get everyone to take a jumping photo (a photo where everyone jumps at the same time). We weren’t too successful with getting a great shot but it was a lot of fun and I’m glad we learned that working with kids (albeit younger more enthusiastic kids) could be fun.
After this we visited a little town in Piura called Catucaus. The town is very famous for its artisans and especially the ceramics that they make and we spent a couple hours here looking at some beautiful artwork and even buying a few souvineers.
Then, that night, we hung out with some current volunteers who came in to visit and they showed us around the city a little bit where we got dinner and a few drinks. And let me say that our dinner was amazing. They took us to a burger place where they had some of the most eccentric and delicious burgers I have had in a long time. For me, I chose the Mexican burger and it was amazing. It had all the regular condiments, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, but then to top it off it was covered in guacamole, salsa, and crushed doritos. Amazing, amazing, amazing.
Friday we got up early to visit the market. It was cool as it is always cool seeing all the activity taking place and all the local foods and products but we were all very tired so really I just wanted to go back to the hotel. I did talk my host-dad who lived in Piura about it though, and he told me that something different about the market in Piura and the market here in Lima is that instead of selling products by the kilo they sell them by individual units in bunches of 25. And it’s cheap too… he says that you can get 25 mangos for 1 sol. Let me rephrase that. You can get 25 juicy mangos the size of a baby’s head for 33 cents. This is going to be a great two years. They also have amazing limes in Piura and the same awesome deal goes. Good stuff.
When we got back from the market we all went back to sleep for a bit and then some volunteers came to visit so we hung out with them for lunch. After that we explored the city a bit and found out that there was a free theatre performance that evening at the municipal theatre so we decided to go check it out after going back to the hotel to relax a bit more. When we arrived to the show though, we were just a little surprised to learn that we were attending an evangelical church service which is not what expecting in the slightest but we made the best of it and it was (I thought) really interesting to see the evangelical church in Peru where the majority of people are Catholic (although I had previously known that about 10% of Peruvians are evangelical).
After this we all went to a very nice restaurant called Cappuchino’s where we got wine, appetizers, and dessert and happened to run into another Peace Corps group who were just returning from high-Piura in the mountains. We weren’t expecting to see them so I really enjoyed talking to them about the experience that they had.
Once we were done eating, we went out to a club together to celebrate the week’s end and I didn’t get home until very late (or early), that is around 5:00am. It was tons of fun, we spent the whole night hanging out and dancing and we ran into some random people we knew so it was good.
The next morning, Saturday, just a few hours later we awoke to knocking at our door as all the other volunteers who had been visiting Piura arrived and wanted to put their luggage in our rooms while they went out for the day. We graciously woke up for them and decided it was time to get going anyway so showered up and tried to get the girls awake and going so that we could go visit the beach before heading home. In this we succeeded and got to visit Colón, a really cool beach about an hour and a half from the city. The water was beautiful, warm, and aside from a dead dolphin on the beach everything was surpisingly clean. We spent our time trying to do jumping photos for a competition we were having and then had lunch by the water where I had some excellent ceviche.
After this we rushed back to catch our bus and got it just in time, as we bunkered down for another 14 hour bus ride back to Lima. I switched seats in order to sit with one of the other groups so I could catch up with them and spent the evening talking until we midnight when my seat-mate Sarah passed out and when I even got some rare bus sleep (certainly due to the not having slept much the night before and the Tylenol PM Sarah gave me to help me sleep).
The next day we arrived home and that’s it! We had a late Halloween Party with all the volunteers that night and I went as a crazy Peruvian soccer fan. It was pretty tranquilo but again got to see more people I hadn’t seen in a week. Crazy how much we’ve gotten to know each other so quickly. And now, I’ll burden you no more. Best wishes! I miss you all so send e-mails so I know how life is back home : ).
-Brian
p.s. There are a few adventures which happened in the past that I will not be able to get to so let me refer you to Robyn Correll’s blog since she shared these with me… her blogs, unlike mine, are short and manageable.
http://robyninperu.blogspot.com/2008/10/horse-race-san-pedro-de-casta.html
http://robyninperu.blogspot.com/2008/10/self-sustaining-farm-casa-blanca.html
http://robyninperu.blogspot.com/2008/10/ruins-pachacamac-history-lesson.html
Also, this brief blog by Freida touched me. Last year I was visiting Peru when an earthquake struck. She visited one of the regions most touched by this and had an interesting experience.
http://fmvq.blogspot.com/2008/11/actually-understanding-why-we-are-here.html
p.p.s. My pictures wouldn’t upload but they are coming. It will be ok.
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