Hey friends!
Lots to say so here goes : )
Where to start… In my last blog I talked a bit about some daily life. Not much of that has changed but what has been going on lately are lots and lots of parties in my community.
Last week, I went to parties. It all started on Saturday morning with the festival of crosses. In some sort of pre-Lent celebration whose religious significance I still fail to grasp (especially after all the cases of beer), the community has a parade of crosses. What does this mean? Basically, above the communities way up high on the hills are crosses that stand year round. From far away they look small but once a year the community goes and retrieves these crosses, parading them through the town center with a marching band and the enthusiasm that comes from escaping day to day life and doing something different. These crosses come in all shapes and sizes and are generally covered with flowers (not real) and an image of Jesus in the center. The crosses are proudly paraded from their lonely mountaintop homes to the church where they are blessed by the priest and then as the mass ends they are paraded outwards in the community. Then, there is a dance with the crosses where men wanting to prove how strong they are dance while carrying the gigantic crosses, and then more parading as they are paraded back from whence they came to stand guarding and blessing the community until next year. This is accompanied and followed by many cases of beer. And since my powers of description and my understanding of this part of the festival escapes me, let me refer you to the pictures as well.
Next, comes a party I understand a little better although the religious significance of it still escapes me. Next, comes the Cortamonti. A name that comes from a mix of Spanish (Corta coming from cortar which means ‘to cut’) and Quechua (Monti meaning ‘tree’ in Quechua). As the name implies, this festival involves cutting a tree. Here is how it works:
This festival, which is very popular in the Peruvian department of Cajamarca and apparently here in Ancash as well, involves… a tree. I’m not sure how the tradition started or when, but what happens is that an individual selects a tree from someone’s property. This individual is the ‘cortador’, or the cutter. He has the responsibility of selecting the tree because he was the one who cut down the tree the year before, we’ll get to that. So, the cortador brings this tree to a central location, usually in the center of one of the communities. Here, a big hole is dug and the tree is replanted by the community. They then climb into the tree and fill it with all kinds of goodies such as blankets, clothing, fruits, beer, balloons, anything good that you could want. All these goodies are bought by the cortador. Then comes the music and the beer. The tree is planted around noon usually, the party then begins and people start dancing around the tree to Huayno music. This continues all throughout the afternoon, evening, and night; and during this time the cortador is responsible for feeding everyone. Usually this means lots of potaotes, possibly a few sheep, and several cuyes (guinea pigs). Then, finally, usually very late around four of five in the morning when everyone is nice and toasty (or in my case incredibly cold from the night air), people take turns cutting the tree with an axe. Yes, drunk people cutting trees with axes. So, people will take turns cutting the tree. This part is kind of like Jenga. You want to cut the tree, but you don’t want to make it fall down. Why? Because if you are the one that cuts the tree down, you are responsible for throwing the party next year. This means you bring the tree, the food, and all the presents to put in the tree, not to mention the beer. To give an idea of what that means financially, my host dad once cut the tree down and spent three months wages the next year to throw the party. No wonder everyone tried to convince James and I to cut the tree down.
So, when someone finally cuts the tree down, everyone goes crazy. Why? Because all the gifts that have been so temptingly living in the trees branches are now free for the taking. First come, first serve. Then, the person who cut the tree is given a couple consolatory cuyes to ease the pain, and the cycle continues the next year.
I went to four of these parties. Three in a row beginning one Saturday and then another the following Saturday. My shameful confession. I never made it all the way to four in the morning to see the actual tree fall. Usually around one or two the tiredness and the cold overtook me and I went home. The one night I tried (with James who was at every party with me) to set an alarm and go back to see the tree fall, was the one night they cut it early so we missed that too. I did get to see a tree fall when my school had their own mini alcohol free cortamonti for the end of summer school though so I don’t feel too bad.
Anyway I hope my babbling made some sense. Strange cross festival followed by dancing, drinking, and tree cutting where the tree cutter has to throw the party next year. Lots of fun and long nights. I’ll post pictures of the actual cortamonti soon; the pictures I linked to above are from the cross festival. I was also going to dive into some personal thoughts on life in general in the Peace Corps but this post is so long already that I’ll save that for next time.
Best!
Brian
p.s. Take note of the new photos tab at the top of this page. This simply contains the link to where my photos are located so you can access them more easily.
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